Wales’ Fragrance Sanctuary: Inside Louise Smith’s Pioneering British Perfumery

In the heart of the British perfumery revival, a new wave of pioneering artisanal craftsmanship finds a leading sanctuary in Welsh perfumery, with Louise Smith, founder and perfumer of Wales Perfumery, extending her passion for fragrance creation to accessible fragrance education from her picturesque corner in Monmouth. Join us to discover Louise's journey into the industry and discover how her artistry evokes landscapes and memories through scents!

What does the power of scent mean to you?

Nostalgia features highly on my list; scent and memory are so intrinsically linked. Fragrance can transport you to a time and place instantly.

When did you first discover a love for fragrance?

My grandmother's dressing table; she lived in London during the war and adored a soliflore fragrance. My favourite was her Gardenia scent. I spent hours playing with the bottles, smelling the caps... and her lipsticks had an amazing violet scent, while her face powder was musky.

Were you always aware of the fragrance industry as a career destination? How and when did you discover the industry?

No, I had no idea how to access the industry. There was no Google, and I even explored the National Library for books. I remember spending summers in Hay-on-Wye looking for books on Perfumery, but found nothing.

During the week, I worked for a big Pharma company, and on Sundays, I worked at Lancome because I loved fragrance so much. I worked on the counter when Miracle was launched.

I spent all my Lancome salary buying bottles of fragrance, including Poison, Eden, Beautiful, Tresor, Eternity, and one of my favourites, Aqua di Gio. I remember the launch of Aqua di Gio when I visited Paris on holiday with my family. There was a huge Aqua di Gio fountain on the Champs Elysees. I discovered how to be a perfumer by complete accident, finding an article in a chemistry magazine at our R&D office. I phoned the lady and off I went to train.

Having studied Chemistry, how do you think this subject has enhanced your understanding of fragrances as a perfumer?

Chemistry helped with the foundations on how to work with different molecules and compounds. You also gain valuable skills and knowledge to weigh accurately - probably the most important part of my job. One too many grams of material, and your final fragrance heads in a different direction.

After your studies, you worked with the R&D team on clinical trials and ingredients within a pharmaceutical company. What were some key moments of learning for you during this time?

I embarked on a career with one of the world's biggest pharmaceutical companies, gaining a huge amount of experience in my ten years. Working across both consumer healthcare and R&D, I was responsible for running clinical trials in medical and dental schools across the country. I also taught undergrad and postgrad students on material science and ran a successful student programme. There were many exciting moments, including the development and launch of several consumer products.

After discovering fragrance as a career destination, Paris called to you, and that’s when you started studying fragrance. What was this experience like?

Hot!! It was 45 degrees, and I was the only Welsh person; everyone else was from Southern Europe and seemed unfazed by the extreme temperatures. It was a wonderful experience. Every day I left the classroom, I felt like skipping down the street; it was a dream come true. I continue to attend seminars to stay updated with industry knowledge, materials, safety, and compliance.

In 2019, you set up your brand, Wales Perfumery, primarily as a workshop centre for people to experience fragrance. Why are the workshops an important part of Wales Perfumery?

The workshops gave me insight into customers' likes, dislikes, and what they look for in fine fragrances. I started running workshops almost eight years ago, so it was very unique. I am very lucky to run workshops from our 500-year-old secret-walled garden here in Monmouth. I find the green space inspires workshop guests to get lost in creation; it is very peaceful and calming... unless our six pedigree sheep are bleating loudly!

Having recently launched your own fragrances, with some inspired by the Welsh landscape, what facets and key ingredients have you used to capture your interpretation of Wales’ atmosphere?

It is the revival of the golden age of perfumery principles, using good quality materials in simpler packaging, focusing on creativity.

The first three fragrances based on the Welsh landscape launched in 2022: Coast - Arfordir contains seaweed absolute, bergamot, a water accord, minerals, driftwood, and amber.

Country - Gwlad features Petitgrain, Neroli, Narcissus, Cut Grass, Gardenia, and Fig Leaf. And finally, Forest - Coedwig presents notes of Fir needle, spices, saffron, ambrette, sandalwood, cedar, vetiver, and patchouli.

Why is the heritage and ancestry of Wales an important inspiration for you to present in your fragrances?

I am very proud to be Welsh. Wales is very different; although it is a country, we are more like a village. Ancestry is important worldwide; I am contacted daily by customers with Welsh heritage from America, Canada, Australia, and Europe.

We have beautiful landscapes, four UNESCO heritage sites, three national parks, and 1,680 miles of coastline. Wales has more castles per square mile than any other country in Europe!

The Welsh language is Britain's oldest language; it is essential to include bilingual names on our fragrances.
I draw inspiration from childhood memories; I was born 300m from the sea, and we lived a field away from the most beautiful beach. The coast is in my blood.

Our 500-year-old walled garden overlooks the beautiful Wye Valley; we have green rolling fields as far as the eye can see, and dark, deep, earthy forests - the most beautiful landscape that inspired my first collection.

What is your latest fragrance, and can you describe what the inspiration and process were like in creating it?

The latest fragrance, Star-Seren, was inspired by our dark skies' status. Our secret walled garden has holiday accommodation, including a Stargazer cabin.

The stars are amazing because we have very little light pollution. When I started thinking about the materials I could use for Star-Seren, I was visiting a National Trust property and saw a water lily that looked like a star. I used the water lily to start building the fragrance and added Jasmine, Green Tea Absolute, Magnolia, Yuzu, Cedrat, and Ambrette. It is a very sparkling fragrance; it dances on the skin just like the stars in the night sky.

Are there any innovations in the fragrance industry that are particularly exciting to you?

Yes! The focus on good quality, pure, and natural materials and knowing where they are sourced, is hugely important to me. The development of new materials, including biodegradable and sustainable materials using green chemistry principles, is very exciting for the industry.

Finally, we love to share scent memories. Is there a particularly important smell for you that is connected to a memory?

The scent of the sea; growing up in Pembrokeshire, it transports me instantly back to my amazing childhood: rock pools, sand, salty water, beach bonfires - totally uplifting, a perfect sensory escape... Maybe it's why I am always drawn to aquatic fragrances!