The Art of Fragrance Creation with Jasper Li, Multi-Disciplinary Perfumer for Tobba

The recent arrival of the Hong-Kong based brand TOBBA Parfums to the UK exclusively at Harvey Nichols shouldn't come as surprise: while its unique visuals immediately capture the olfactory essence of the luxury niche brand, it's through the tangible passion behind the fragrance range that TOBBA Parfums set itself as an extremely exciting young reality in the beauty market.

The mastermind behind the exquisitely crafted fragrance brand is Jasper, a self- taught prodigy with one of the most inspiring multi-disciplinary backgrounds in the industry.
We were delighted to reach out to the young creative and learn more about his perfumery path and his unique creative process.

When did you realise you wanted to become a fine fragrance perfumer?

After I finished my last solo exhibition as a painter 6 years ago, I decided to stop and experience other things in life. The one thing I always remember from my mentor in college, “Art is not bounded by one dimension”. It enlightened me and reminded me of my fragrance memory. When I was young, my mum opened my eyes to many of her inspiring passions, including her classic fragrance collection, especially Soir de Paris by Bourjois, a little blue bottle with a vase-like design. I realise scent is so magical, you can’t see it but it creates vivid picture in your mind, therefore I decided to explore further.

However, in Hong Kong, we don’t have such education, environment and resources, so I really started to do research online, joined various fragrance Facebook groups, ordering material from online retailers, mixing in my studio, sharing the creations with family and friends, REALLY trying my best to get closer to perfumery.

That’s the moment I discover the olfactory, which is super interesting to me- it’s the same language as visual art, just using different mediums.

In 2019, I wanted to take it more seriously and knew that perfumery is not only about art but also the technology, so I took a professional perfumery course and started my career in fine fragrance.

How did your creative style and olfactory taste develop over the years?

I don’t think designated style and olfactory taste can be suddenly created, but they are rather established over time. They should be observed in a third person point of view instead. I wish my debut collection and those in the future could speak for themselves and I’ll be happy to hear about how others interpret my style. But when I’m creating my collection, I always focus on its integrity and transcendence.

What is one of your favourite creations, and could you share with us its conception and some of its creative process?

Force would have to be my favourite from the collection. 


The fragrance is actually inspired by a meditation practice – the appreciation of vitality and life force, from your everyday surroundings from forests, from flowers, from animals, people around us. We wanted to create a perfume that’s calming, mysterious, meditative and contradicting, since these are our brand’s core values - using scent ingredient to express contrast, texture, tone which are the painting language from my past life as a painter.

Just like its name, the composition is an extremely impactful contrast attaining an equilibrium.
Opening with Italian cypress and touch of spearmint, it then becomes darker and warmer with notes of fir balsam, suede and patchouli. It’s definitely an invisible force. It’s meditative just like what our brand stands for: healing, nourishing and soul nurturing.

How do you maintain a sharp olfactory imagination, and what do you do to stimulate your creativity?

By adandoning individual perceptions- fresh attitude comes from not perceiving or assuming anything, if we take out our subjectivity in life, we could always gain new perspective, therefore curiosity towards life and matters keeps the imagination alive.

I believe all five senses are connected and stimulate each other constantly. One of the senses that affect me the most is sound: my favourite singer is Faye Wong, a singer from China who is also a fashion and music icon. She might appear cold and distant but inside that voice, there’s the deepest love and endless passion towards life.

Listening to her transports me to a space where creativity is limitless and boundless.

What inspires you?

Besides aforementioned music influence, and my background as a painter, I find the linkage between visual language and scent fascinating- I'm intrigued by how visual art can inspire unique combinations of ingredients, and how a well-balanced fragrance formula can draw a vivid and memorable picture in our minds.
My fragrances are deeply influenced by ingredients and the emotional vibration they have on me.

Do you think fragrance consumption has been changing over the past years? If so, how? And how do you respond to the market changes as a perfumer?

Definitely: the market has been changing so much after Covid, no matter the level of consumption or the blurring lines between mass and niche market. Instead of responding or coping with the ever-changing environment, I have developed my own pace, not really caring about the market. Maybe because it is my own brand, I still treat perfumery as an art form that’s more personal and emotional.

What advice would you give to anyone wanting to join the industry and considering a career in fine fragrance?

Passion and determination are prerequisites: it is a very competitive industry, so make sure to have a unique point of view.

How would you describe your fragrance offer, and which fragrance would you recommend to start with for a customer approaching TOBBA for the first time?

In our debut collection, we have 6 perfumes covering the florals, woody notes and skin scent. They are all unisex and we do not want to limit them in seasons or occasions, rather we want our customers to have their own interpretations, just like art pieces.

Our design of the packaging is minimal but the scent layering is complicated. For first timers, we would recommend Serendipity.

It’s almost like a trip to the Silk Road with its heat and dryness, giving a balance of saffron, nutmeg and sandalwood.

Describe your brand in three words...

Integrity. Aesthetic. Transcendence.