Perfumer Focus: Matthieu Maneuvrier, Robertet Jr. Perfumer
Hailing from the aromatic landscapes of South France, Matthieu Maneuvrier is a Jr Perfumer at Robertet, making waves in the UK fine fragrance market.
In this interview, he shares his path to becoming a perfumer, the influence of French fragrance culture on his style, and his passion for crafting unique scents that leave a lasting impression on individuals and projects. Prepare to be inspired by Matthieu's artistic journey and dedication to the craft of perfumery!
How did you discover the power of scent, and when did you realise you wanted to become a fine fragrance perfumer?
As I was born in the South of France, I was surrounded by scent my whole life. The area I grew up in was known for its involvement in the creation of perfumes, and my father already worked within the industry, giving me great inspiration for the future. When I was older, I met with a perfumer for the first time, and their knowledge and passion gave me the realisation that this was the path I would follow. Becoming a perfumer allowed me to take into account my family heritage as well as my artistic personality, and use it in my creations.
What steps did you take to join the industry and become a Junior Perfumer?
Even before I knew that I wanted to follow the career of a perfumer, my childhood experiences in the industry had inspired me. I was involved primarily in the creation of essential oil manufacturing, for use within perfumery. After school in the evenings, and on my weekends, and throughout the holidays, I would work to get experience in every step of the essential oil production, from nurturing the plant, harvesting, extraction, as well as quality control and formulation. I travelled a lot with my father at this time, going around the world to see different locations and plants, gaining a more in depth knowledge of the market. In 2018, I did my first internship with Robertet over the summer, and then joined ISIPCA. In 2019 I began learning from Michel Almairac at the Robertet in house Perfumery School, where I learned on a more intense level about the raw materials and processes used in perfume creation. I also gained a deeper understanding of the history of the field, as well as in depth knowledge on all aspects of the industry.
As a French perfumer now living and working in the UK, how much of an impact did the French fragrance culture have on your perfumery style?
The French fragrance culture is part of my personality, and it comes from the experiences I have had, which has enriched every aspect of my identity.
The fragrance culture in France, from education, personal aesthetic and the entire industries story, has given me my particular style and niche in creation.
Have you noticed some peculiar differences between the two cultures in fragrance consumption ?
The UK market focuses on slightly different brands to France, with a higher appreciation for brands with a strong ‘English’ identity and heritage, whereas France has a more focused market, with heritage brands like Chanel, Dior, Hermes at the forefront.
Both countries have a good appreciation of niche brands however, and this area tends to be more similar, with strong interest in market leaders like Serge Lutens, Maison Francis Kurkdjian, Miller Harris etc, as well as independents like Marie Jeanne.
What influence had your mentors in your career?
My mentor taught me a lot, which has influenced where I am in my career today. He offered me advice, and always allowed me to observe his techniques, to gain an understanding of methodologies, as well as a great appreciation for the overall philosophy behind his perfume creation.
How does Robertet support your creativity?
As a perfumer for Robertet, I have been giving the opportunity to meet many suppliers, customers and industry bodies. The job at Robertet is very experiential, and the events I have been able to attend have also furthered my creativity, for instance visits to BSP workshops, IFRA talks and other industry specific events. Robertet also allows access to really special and beautiful raw materials, as they are considered the global leader in naturals. Additionally, the company has a great innovation process, and are continuously discovering and creating new and exclusive ingredients to work with.
As a young perfumer, do you have any colleagues you look up to or admire for their contributions to our industry?
I have a great deal of wonder and admiration for my mentor, and appreciate the knowledge I gained from him so much. Alongside this though, I have a huge level of respect, and admiration, for every single person involved in the industry, no matter what role they play. It is everyone working together, and using their skills, that allows this industry to be so beautiful and creative.
What type of fragrances are you looking forward to creating ? What excites you about your job?
I am working on a lot of great projects at the moment, and each one is exciting for their own reasons. What I find really invigorating about my current position in the industry, is meeting people, learning about their personalities and passions, and using this additional background information to envision new and exciting creations. One of the most exciting parts of my role, is matching the perfect scent to each individual person and project, and seeing their reaction at the first smell.
What advice would you give to anyone wanting to join the industry and considering a career in fine fragrance?
My advice to someone looking at joining the industry, would simply be to smell every single day, and take in as much industry knowledge as you can.
What is one of your most favourite scent memories?
There are a few scent memories I am attached too, in particular the smell of the Mediterranean, from the food to the landscapes, and everything in between. I have a particular penchant for the scent of fresh lavender fields, orange blossom warming in the sun, aromatic colognes, and fresh cocktails. The scent of home cooking is another smell I adore, and I love to pick out individual flavours within dishes.