Roja Dove Answers - How to choose a fragrance
Can you explain what a scent profile/olfactive family is?
An olfactive family is a way of categorising a perfume to make it easier to understand. It is like categorising a style of art, a genre of music, or a type of wine.
How can a scent profile/olfactive family help a consumer choose a fragrance?
In essence, it creates a great starting point. The fragrance market is highly saturated and as such it can become utterly overwhelming when approaching the task of finding a new fragrance. So, if you can safely say “I am a Chypré wearer”, then it already reduces the amount of fragrances you should consider by three quarters.
What are the different olfactive families?
There are four fragrance families: Floral, Fougère, Chypré and Ambrée.
Floral is self-explanatory and exists more so in feminine perfumery whilst Fougère – meaning Fern – exists more for masculine options. Fougère’s and Chypré’s are both quite natural styles with the former being fresher and aromatic – more akin to a Barbershop style – whilst a Chypré is heavier – based more around woods and mosses. The Ambrée accord are deep, rich, exotic creations.
Can the scent profile change over time on your skin? E.g., will the top notes fade as the bottom notes linger?
Yes – that is precisely what a fragrance does. It tells a story as it evolves. If you think of a fragrance as being akin to a pyramid in structure, then the Top notes at the peak are the first to dissipate from the skin, as the wide base of the pyramid reflects the Base Notes of the scent, which stick to the skin for longer. As the effervescent citrus Top Notes dissipate more quickly, the fragrance unravels through fruits and flowers, down to woods and mosses, and onto all the deep, basey materials that tell the final chapter.
When selecting a fragrance, what are the most important notes to consider: top, middle, or bottom? (and why?)
They are all equally alike in importance: Top Notes are important because they make the welcoming introduction, whilst Base Notes are important because they create the lasting memory. All the notes combine to create the lifespan of the fragrance and the story it tells.
Is it important when testing a fragrance to wear it throughout the day/in different climates? (If so, why?)
A great way to narrow down your options is to smell fragrances on cards, side-by-side. Only by smelling a scent against another will the nuances come out quickly. This will help you better understand how you feel about them. Then, when you have found ones that make a shortlist, repeat the exercise but on your skin to see how they work with your skin chemistry and how they differ to the cards. It is all about familiarising yourself with a fragrance – spending time with it to understand its DNA and how well it fits with you.
How can you select the right fragrance for you?
Firstly, do your research – heading to the perfumery with an idea of what sounds like you would enjoy it is a good step. Secondly, test them but make sure you hold onto blotters and smell them throughout the day to get a good idea of its journey. Third – try on your skin! Spend time with it to see how well you suit each other. Finding a fragrance is a little like courting.
How best to select a fragrance for someone else? What factors should you consider?
Consider their sense of style: how to they dress, how do they present themselves, how do they tend to smell? And how do they present their home? Use context clues to make an informed decision as to which fragrance family they would fall into. If you smell a scent and think “this IS them”, then you have a winner. A fragrance which embodies and reflects anyone’s personality is sure to be one that gets used lovingly.
